We’ve had our final day in Portugal and it was a fine example of how much more we can accomplish when I am not in charge of the GPS. We started with a drive south to Coimbra, to see the university. In existence since 1290, it’s been in Coimbra since 1537. Ron fell so in love with the academic grandeur of the place that, while I was in the bathroom line, he purchased both a sweatshirt and a hat to add to the fruits of our do not purchase anything edict (Birkenstocks, t-shirt, tights, umbrella, sweatshirt and hat).
Here’s the courtyard of the university, which leads to the Baroque Library, from 1728, and then a shot of the interior of the library (not my photo – borrowed, as all photography is banned in there).
Two things from our tour that stuck out for me: 1) there is a colony of bats that lives in the library and so, every night, all of the beautiful wood tables are covered to protect the surfaces and 2) the university has historically operated as an entity separate from the city of Coimbra and, because of that, has a “university prison” that exists in the passageways under the library. It was used for students who got into a modest amount of trouble: drinking, carousing, disorderly conduct. The more serious crimes were handled by the city police.
From the university, Mayra took us over to see a Fado performance. Fado is a genre of music that originated here in Coimbra, using Portuguese acoustic guitars and and male singers. Famished, as it had been four hours since breakfast, the braver souls on our tour were then given this massive fish lunch and Ron, who moved to the vegetarian ranks days ago, was extremely relieved to see our pasta.
Here’s another couple of shots of the old town of Coimbra, but look quickly because we still have a lot to do:
From Coimbra, Mayra took us over the Costa Nova. This is an area dominated by the fishing industry since the 19th century. The first houses here were called haystacks and were painted in bright colors with vertical lines. The general aesthetic still prevails today although it is largely a summer vacation area:
The area sits right on the (very windy) Atlantic coast:
From the Costa Nova (I know, I know…but we’re almost done) Mayra took us on a boat ride in our “hometown” of Aveiro. Aveiro is a university town with a population of about 80,000. Walking around, Ron and I decided that about 60,000 of them must be students. Our instinct was strengthened over the course of last night when they partied, yelling and screaming, until 4:30am and I wished we had access to that university jail in Coimbra.
It’s a fun city though, with an interesting mix of architecture. There’s this Modernista stuff:
And then there’s this Modernista stuff right next to some just plain modern:
And then, just down the street, there’s the Aveiro cathedral, from the 15th century:
Ok, that’s it! Portugal has been a blast. Favorite city? Definitely Porto, with Coimbra coming in a close second. Time to head over to Spain. I’ll talk with you all in a couple of days from our first stop: Santiago de Compostela.
Travels with Valerie 
The library situation must have driven everyone bat-shit (Stan’s comment, not mine)
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Hi Stefanie:) Hi Stan!! I am not a bat fan so I kept my eyes on the ceiling of that place. Ron also adds that they allow the bats to stay because they eat these bugs that can damage the paper in the books.
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They (the bats) were probably sleeping anyway, Valerie. Love the first comment. I’ll remember that one if my house sitter sees any while she’s here. Also love those vertical striped houses. Do they denote anything in particular or just “tradition”? I want to travel with you! I am right there with you with Porto and Coimbra, like wine, like to shop and buy “stuff” I can’t live without while traveling but then wonder what possessed me when I get the um….treasure home. Plus I’d eat all the fish you don’t want. Living in Colorado leaves our seafood sources fairly minimal. This is one of the reasons I travel. Fun going along with you!
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Thanks, Andi:) We need you with all these fish offerings! Those fish fillets yesterday must have been about 12 ounces each – they were nuts! No one could finish them. Our guide was not sure of the history of the striping on the houses – she said one “theory” was that so fishermen could find their homes easily from the water. We’re doing a neat Road Scholar Italy in October – check out their programs… we really like them:)
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Hey Val, Stan and I will be in the Loire Valley from mid Sept through first week in October. Lisa from our RS trip is coming to visit us the last 3 days….any chance you and Ron can swing by too? Which RS Italy trip are you doing?
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I know you’ll love Spain, too. Will you be walking any part of the Camino? George and I hiked about 5 miles of it on a Rick Steves tour several years ago. I loved the experience even though it was raining a good part of the way. I loved stopping in the small albergues along the way for a break. Following the scallop shells was fun and I’m wondering if you saw one in Porto? It was on a smallish concrete pillar on the Main Street. If you’re in Madrid, don’t miss my favorite painting, Picasso’s “Guernica” in the Reina Sofia museum. Seeing the “real deal” was a life changing experience for me and I stayed planted in front of it for a really long time. And I’m not crazy about modern art! We had just been in the small town of Guernika. Are you enjoying the food in spite of the fish? Is your weather good? What did you like best about Portugal? Too many questions? ENJOY every minute and thanks again for letting me travel vicariously with you two and the rest of your tour mates.
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Hello:) We did see tons of the shells – in Porto, in Braga and then here in SdC. I don’t think we’re walking any of the Camino – we just got here last night and I’ve only seen the outside of the cathedral – but even walking over there I saw a few shells. We’re not getting Madrid on this trip – we’ll end in Barcelona for 4 days on our own as I’ve been dying to get back there – the architecture is so gorgeous. I’ve tried cod twice now! It’s okay but as always I lean towards my bread and cheese, which I never get tired of. Loved Portugal – best thing? Hmmmm…the prices were so low, there was so much beautiful tiling on the buildings, and everyone was so lively and friendly!!
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